What is the best temporary rust protection I can give my car before I can take it to a professional paint shop?

I'm asking this because I found a few minor rust spots on my car that I want to stop before doing anymore damage. I've heard all kind of "quick-fix" solutions from spraying burnt engine oil in wheelarches and boonet hinges housing to boiled vaseline and I wonder which would be the best solution for 1-2 months?

Anything that will keep air away from the bare metal,,,, you can really get creative if you want to.

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95 SL500 Smoke Silver, Parchment 64K
07 E350 4matic Station Wagon White 34K
02 E320 4Matic Silver/grey 80K
05 F150 Silver 44K

In our case would be more of keeping the rust from spreading until we can get a professional paint job...

If someone are going weld on the car in near future, use only thin non-toxic oil. Repairing a car with a lot of cavety protection and undercoating is a pain.

Karsten

Use fish oil in an aerosol.....you can even paint it if you want for the time being

Fish Oil is readily available here in Australia...used by most people

Car will smell fishy only for about 3 days....then it disapates....worth it...trust me

It's true that an aerosol will solve the problem a lot more quicker than a brush. I'll see what I can find over here.

One of the rapair shops I've visited told me they would spray the cars under with burnt motor oil every autums to prevent rust from salty roads. They were using the same type of installation as used for paiting the car just that it sprayed oil instead of regular paint.

Put some POR 15 on it. GOOD STUFF

http://por15store.com/

I like POR15 too, but it is of more permanent nature

Karsten

This really looks like a miracle product to me. If it's as good as they say it is on the website it seems that this is what I need for a serious rust protection. Until then I need to know a few things:

Have you used it yet? If so, what product you used, when, and with what results?

Yes, This is GOOD stuff. I have 2 Corvette Stingrays with frames and gas tank done with it. Send me your e-mail address, will send you cool picts of before and after.

I second the por-15...

I used it on a 1100cc 1995 honda ace motorcycle... GOOD STUFF

~Nate

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95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100.
1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle!
2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl)

I recommend that you grind asmuch of the rust off then hit it with a can of automotive primer(as a temp fix)

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Hi Meridivs,

Used motor oil can be very bad for rubber body mounts, door seals and hoses.

The better oil-undercoat shops use a different type of oil.. closer to hydraulic fluid or automatic transmission fluid. It costs them more but it is worth it to the car owner.

Ron

I use the por and used motor oil method .It is working well for me.

Fluid Film
This does not contain silicone, and I guess the bodyshop can remove it easily.
This may swell some rubber trim. So do not leave it thick on rubber for a long time.

Eastwood Heavy Duty Anti Rust Aerosol Black
Bodyshop may spend a little more time to remove this than Fluid Film.

Rust Bullet
This can be semi permanent or last almost as long as bodyshop's work depending on your skill.
(I do not know whether this is better or worse than POR-15. I just find that it is a little easier to use than POR-15.)

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1992 300D 2.5 turbo diesel. 319 k miles.
124.128 chassis, 602.962 engine, 722.418 tranny.