50% used motor oil 50% diesel - Page 16 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

gozapper · #**226** 11-30-2012, 12:47 PM

Are you guys running 50-50 wmo and d2 making a lot of smoke?

Tom

Dee8go · #**227** 11-30-2012, 12:51 PM

I miss my 300TD!

eatont9999 · #**228** 11-30-2012, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gozapper

Are you guys running 50-50 wmo and d2 making a lot of smoke?

Tom

When I run 50/50, I notice a slight increase in smoke opacity at the rev limiter and at cold idle but nothing out of the ordinary within the normal RPM range.

By opacity, I mean the smoke is darker. I get smoke at the rev limiter or about 4500 RPM even on D2 but the oil makes it a little darker.

oldsinner111 · #**229** 11-30-2012, 01:37 PM

mine just stinks like tar

sloride · #**230** 11-30-2012, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwitchKitty

At a given temperature and pressure the height of the product in the tower is a function of it's specific gravity. Products are separated by height.

Yes that is correct for a continuous feed distillation. On a batch distillation all components come off of the same level (top) in order of temperature in which they are turned into a vapor lowest boilers coming over the top first.

97 SL320 · #**231** 12-01-2012, 07:21 PM

Ugh, not another used motor oil thread.

One of the reasons motor oil is changed is because of it going acidic ( it comes back as a low TBN Total Base Number in a oil analysis. ) . Some put all sorts of filters to protect the injection pump but will burn used up motor oil thinking they are doing good.

Also, motor oil isn't designed to be burnt, it has all sorts of additives that turn to ash / carbon. Do you really want to load the combustion chambers with carbon / abrasive ash? 2 stroke oils make a big deal about being ashless, I'd think they are on to something.

Viscosity improvers in motor oils are polymers, ( plastic ) Do you really want to have such chemicals running through your combustion chambers?

Yes a diesel ( or even a gas motor at reduced percentages ) can run on old motor oil, but in the long term what are you risking / saving in the long term?

eatont9999 · #**232** 12-03-2012, 06:21 PM

Last weekend I bought 50 gallons of WMO for $50. I didn't have much time on Saturday but I filtered 5 gallons and threw it in the fuel tank before heading over to the girlfriend's place. I was on a little under 1/2 tank of straight D2. I don't plan on buying D2 for hopefully a month and I will see how it goes. I have a bunch of full gas cans my neighbor gave me when he moved out, so I have been using that to cut the oil. The only uncertainty is that this oil has already been cut with gasoline but I don't know the percentage so I am guessing on the viscosity. The seller runs it in his F250 7.3 IDI but he has more stock than he can use.

hauff · #**233** 02-19-2015, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brabus

After some guy claimed to be burning 100% heated used motor oil I had to try it.

I drove my car down to half past the R on the fuel gauge (I estimate this is around 2 gallons) and then changed my oil. I put all 8 quarts in the tank and drove to a friends house 40 miles away. As far as I could tell there was no noticeable difference. It didn’t smoke or anything.

The exhaust did smell a little like when you spill oil on a hot exhaust manifold.
I hope this didn’t put a huge hole in the O-zone layer.

I have run a 50/50 blend of waste oil diesel in my 7.3l for powerstroke for the last 600 miles. Only difference i notice is better mileage and power. runs smooth and no more smoke than usual. Lots of neg. on this post from people who dont understand. I just got a Mercedes 300D and topped it off with my "motor mud mix". Runs great. I was gifted about 1000 gal of used oil on the farm I bought so it makes sense for me as I do have lots of motors around to change oil in also. My process is as follows. mix 50/50 oil and diesel. pump thru a hydraulic strainer. dont know the micron rating but is is fairly coarse. It takes oid the bug, leaves and gravel. I have a water drain at the bottom of that housing. It then gets pumped into a heater tank maintaining about 200 deg. that helps thin it further before it goes thru a 1200g centrifuge. from the centrifuge is another tube with a water trap. It then goes into my dispensing barrel that has a 10micron filter with a water drain and a 6 micron filter behind that. so far so good.

hauff · #**234** 02-19-2015, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97 SL320

Ugh, not another used motor oil thread.

One of the reasons motor oil is changed is because of it going acidic ( it comes back as a low TBN Total Base Number in a oil analysis. ) . Some put all sorts of filters to protect the injection pump but will burn used up motor oil thinking they are doing good.

Also, motor oil isn't designed to be burnt, it has all sorts of additives that turn to ash / carbon. Do you really want to load the combustion chambers with carbon / abrasive ash? 2 stroke oils make a big deal about being ashless, I'd think they are on to something.

Viscosity improvers in motor oils are polymers, ( plastic ) Do you really want to have such chemicals running through your combustion chambers?

Yes a diesel ( or even a gas motor at reduced percentages ) can run on old motor oil, but in the long term what are you risking / saving in the long term?

Dont knock what you havent tried. Clean the oil well and run it. I have read posts where guys have 50-100k on use motor oil at up to 80% blend. I run it in my powerstroke and i runs great with better power and mileage and no more smoke than diesel. I have about $4000 in fuel value in oil around here and a $5000 Mercedes 300D... Ill take my chances

hauff · #**235** 02-19-2015, 01:45 PM

Could be the detergents in the oil actually cleaning you old fuel system. If you never run any type of cleaner in your system you just did with motor oil. After a few filter change cycles you should be good providing you are cleaning your oil well.

strelnik · #**236** 02-19-2015, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hauff

I have run a 50/50 blend of waste oil diesel in my 7.3l for powerstroke for the last 600 miles. Only difference i notice is better mileage and power. runs smooth and no more smoke than usual. Lots of neg. on this post from people who dont understand. I just got a Mercedes 300D and topped it off with my "motor mud mix". Runs great. I was gifted about 1000 gal of used oil on the farm I bought so it makes sense for me as I do have lots of motors around to change oil in also. My process is as follows. mix 50/50 oil and diesel. pump thru a hydraulic strainer. dont know the micron rating but is is fairly coarse. It takes oid the bug, leaves and gravel. I have a water drain at the bottom of that housing. It then gets pumped into a heater tank maintaining about 200 deg. that helps thin it further before it goes thru a 1200g centrifuge. from the centrifuge is another tube with a water trap. It then goes into my dispensing barrel that has a 10micron filter with a water drain and a 6 micron filter behind that. so far so good.

I have now acquired two motorized filter set-ups used to pump up to 16 gallons of motor oil per minute through a 6 micron filter.

Additionally, I have acquired two Air Force portable (not really-- 700 lbs) rolling centrifuge/biodiesel labs that were used on B-52; and a smaller commercial centrifuge.

When the damn weather gets warmer and I get a better supply of WMO, I will first heat all my WMO to at least 150 degrees, then pump it twice through the 6 micron filters. Following that, depending on the results, we woill look at centrifuging the oil 5 gallons at a time untoil it is nothing but oil, with a fairly low pH.

I'm going to take a small sample to a lab to ensure that the particulate size is small, can also get a viscosity reading on the oil.

I say this because I might not use this as fuel only, but as super lube for the fuel system if the lubricity holds out.

This will have to wait a month as the weather warms and I refine my experiments.

Cloudsurfer · #**237** 03-09-2015, 02:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strelnik

I have now acquired two motorized filter set-ups used to pump up to 16 gallons of motor oil per minute through a 6 micron filter.

Additionally, I have acquired two Air Force portable (not really-- 700 lbs) rolling centrifuge/biodiesel labs that were used on B-52; and a smaller commercial centrifuge.

When the damn weather gets warmer and I get a better supply of WMO, I will first heat all my WMO to at least 150 degrees, then pump it twice through the 6 micron filters. Following that, depending on the results, we woill look at centrifuging the oil 5 gallons at a time untoil it is nothing but oil, with a fairly low pH.

I'm going to take a small sample to a lab to ensure that the particulate size is small, can also get a viscosity reading on the oil.

I say this because I might not use this as fuel only, but as super lube for the fuel system if the lubricity holds out.

This will have to wait a month as the weather warms and I refine my experiments.

Haha what are these AF "centrifuge/ biodiesel labs?" Depending upon what these actually are, if you'd like to part with one, I may be interested....

strelnik · #**238** 03-09-2015, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwitchKitty

There are many threads here on this topic, search.

I don't recommend this practice. I have run it several times and the results were not good.

After having done some considerable research on this topic and combed about 450 sites, with notes, I discovered these trends:

BAD = clogs or large resude lumps in tank or lines

1. mixing WMO unfiltered + WVO unfiltered and just left to stand for cleaning + gasoline in a 40-40-20 mix

2. mixing WMO unfiltered and WVO unfiltered and heated to about 170 degrees F

3. Mixing turpentine + candle wax shavings + mineral spirits + used fryer oil in 30-10-30-30 mix, causing crud in tanks and blockages after about 10 miles

4. WMO unfiltered + hydraulic oil unfiltered- no more info, don't know if hydraulic oil was mineral or vegetable based

GOOD = normal use as fuel after 5 full tanks

1. WMO (filtered using "true" 5 micron filters in pump, then centrifuged) + mineral-based hydraulic oil (filtered to 3 microns before dumped for recycler pick-up) + kerosene in 6 gal + 6 gal + 1 gal mix

2. super-thin hydraulic oil, mineral based with viscosity at 2.6 (?) on scale, plus used Dexron filtered to 5 microns + kerosene, together in 10 gal + 10 gal + 2 gallon mix.

In very few cases was I able to find info on Mercedes vehicles. Many mixes were made for Continental multi-fuel engines or for larger older diesels. In many cases people did not answer when I asked for proportions. These did, so I have them.

I'm sure there are many ways to do this, but I'm interested in using only Bosch MB pumps and systems and creating fuel usable in them without damage.

zibi1988 · #**239** 05-13-2015, 08:28 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SppxyRIO3qo

GREASE

eatont9999 · #**240** 05-13-2015, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zibi1988

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SppxyRIO3qo

GREASE

I mentioned he should stock up on delivery valves. He'll find out soon enough what that means.

I won't run veggie anything in my vehicles. I only run petroleum based fuels. The second SD that I bought had numerous issues with the IP because of veggie use - improper at that.