It had a small internal leak that wasn't cured by replacing the seals. I also had an intermittent rough hot idle (like a rack damper issue) and an occasional "nailing" sound (like a bad injector). I just got sick of messing with it, so I replaced it. The new IP made a significant difference, it now idles very smoothly at about 550 rpm and the other issues seem to be gone.

AFAIK, it's only seen diesel fuel. It did have 340K miles, so I'm not surprised if it was just worn out. Hopefully the new one will last as long.

I don't know if adding NEW motor oil or another additive would help extend the life of the IP. Assuming $1 per quart for every tank and about 400 miles per tank, that would cost about $750 over 300K miles. The installed cost of a IP is around $1200, so the additive would have extend the life of the IP by about 50% to be cost effective. Personally, I do not normally use additives, but they probably don't hurt. OTOH, burning USED oil has no justification because the potential for damage (and pollution) would far out-weigh any potential benefits.

On old MB Diesels, where I live, you can usually get a used replacement engine attached to a decent rust free body for $600.00 to $1,500.00 so there is not a lot of downside risk in my mind. I guess you could factor in the effort of an engine swap if you really liked your present body. My analysis didn't include burning the used ATF, gear oil, or manual transmission fluid that is generated as well, but at some point it seems you end up with a free car. I am also factoring in the hassle of sclepping oil jugs 12 miles away to recycle and the value of my time. With my oil sucker, it takes about 8-10 minutes of actual labor time to do an oil change so the disposal storage issue almost takes longer than the act of changing the oil itself. The ole time value of money, or is that the money value of time?

If only there was a way to suck the oil up the dip stick and straight to my tank with a filter in line, then I wouldn't even have to pull the oil out of my sucker into a jug first (mostly kidding).

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2008 GL320CDI 6K
1970 280SL 112K
1982 240D 210K (Sold)
1973 220D 220K (Sold)
1967 200D 160K (Sold)
1992 400E 139K (Sold)
1988 300E 148K (Sold)
1987 300D 257K (Sold)
1991 300E 108K (Sold)
1987 300E 131K (Sold)
1978 300D TMU (Sold)
1980 300D TMU (Sold)
MBCA Member

...when engine oil was mineral oil, without additives. Chemistry has advanced a bit since the Johnson Administration. I suspect the diesel fuel formulations were different too. I don't know a lot about 220D, but the 617 has a specific oil supply line coming from the engine to the IP. I know that one adds oil to gas in lawn mowers, but my MBz is not a lawn mower!

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Der Panzermann und Fraulein Fahrvergnuegen

1991 420SEL 201K "The Big Blue One"
1985 300DT 205K chassis/285K engine nee California emissions "Goldbug"
1983 300TDT 255K "The Womble"
1983 300 DT 214K "Sea Sprite"-Rear-ended a truck
1983 300SD 285K "The Donor" Gave his life so that others can live
1980 500SL Euro 105K "Der Panzer"

Okay, I am not going to claim that I dont understand the environmental arguments against burning used motor oil, it is nasty stuff, and probably a horrible pollutant. What I dont understand is the fear of damaging the IP, Injectors, and top end. The Mercedes stock fuel filter is a 10 micron filter, correct? Therefore, The vehicle was engineered for a filtration level of 10 microns. Have you ever cut open a filter after running 3000 miles worth of diesel through it? The particulate matter in there is some nasty, abrasive stuff. I think you guys are under-estimating the cleanliness of your diesel fuel. In any case, I just dumped my last oil change into a 55 gallon drum full of vegetable oil that I filter to 10 microns, and then again through a racor 2020 10 micron heated filter in a custom housing in the vehicle. I am on the road and don't particularly want to deal with disposing of the stuff. Is there any reason that anyone can think of that the particulates in diesel are any better for my engine than the particulates in used motor oil? Because I sure cant.

I forgot to mention, I run Rotella 15-40 which to the best of my knowledge is straight mineral oil....

The particulates in your "diesel fuel" are not there until you burn it. They already exist in your used engine oil, and pass through your IP.

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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg

I really hope you're kidding about thinking it's straight mineral oil...

I really don't want to argue about this, it's too silly. I guess I should just do what most folks do and ignore stuff like this. The only reason I posted in this thread is that I was afraid someone new may read this and actually try some of this nonsense. I've had my $.02, good luck.

Assuming the oil is safetly filtered what is the issues with using motor oil as diesel fuel ? can it be "processed" into diesel fuel ala biodiesel? can it be run in a SVO style system ? Filtering should not be a problem its METALLIC particulate after all just use a magnet. you can get a magnet for around $80 that is so strong that if you fingers got between it and something it wanted to kiss you would very likely lose or heavily damage your fingers (that should take care of any particulate matter) I already have one of these (far far away from my electronics it has a range measured in many feet) might be fun just to see what it can suck out of a quart of used oil :-)

Any other issues ? Since smaller shops have to PAY to get rid of oil they might gladly hand over gallons and gallons of waste oil to me :-)

Just a thought. I am actually not too worried about hurting my engine (within reason) since its already only in "soso" shape and I have a spare already ready and set for when it dies :-) (76 300D 75 300D donor ready)

Also what about safety ? is motor oil more dangerous than vegetable Oil (flammability etc.) what are the risks ?

The way I see it most waste oil gets burned anyway so whats the environmental difference if I burn it in my engine instead of in someones boiler or burner?

Thanks
Chris Taylor
http://www.nerys.com/

Another post just so I am subscribed sorry forgot to set that option first

You would have to crack the oil into diesel. Basically, you would have to build your own oil refinery.

Well, if you are sure your super duper magnet can get all the metal particles, you might have a shot at it. However, aren't there other metals in the engine that might not be magnetic?

In any case, do you feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?

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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow

like aluminimum

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-Trevor

OBK #12
1980 300SD 333,XXX miles - Totaled
1986 Mazda RX-7 212,XXX miles - impounded and auctioned off
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited 33,000- SEGR, Provent, Fumoto

also lead and copper.

I doubt seriously that the metallics in used motor oil are in a concentration high enough to cause any damage. If they were, MB engines wouldn't have the 300-500k mile reputation. They wouldn't have anything left inside.
I would think it's more the soot in the oil that would cause problems. Iknow they ran all the engine oil thru a centrifuge on my son's Coast Guard cutter.

Wouldn't say a magnet capture all the metal particles? (well except for the non-ferous I guess.)

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