A few more fuel notes:

Inspect the fuel hoses before you start the job. If they look dried out, buy new ones...all of them. One of them you have to buy by the meter, but you only need a few inches of it.

Use the hose between the elbow and the fuel accumulator to drain the tank. Remove the end on the fuel accumulator side and drop it in a gas can. Make sure you have enough storage for the gas. Hopefully you won't have a full tank.

I got my fuel hose clamps from Pep Boys. They work perfectly. They will crack old hoses, so be prepared.

I had no problem changing the hose from the fuel tank to the elbow. $150 seems steep to me. That was one of the easier hoses for me to replace, but then I live in a relatively rust-free area.

DO FUEL WORK OUTSIDE where ventilation is better. Not because of the obvious benefits of not breathing fuel vapors, but because fuel vapors collect and can be ignited by normally innocuous things like the pilot light on a water heater or the motor from a fan. And don't use hot lights anywhere nearby. They can also ignite the fuel vapors.

The studs on my fuel pump are different sizes, one 8mm and one 7mm, so you can't attach the wires in reverse.

All work on fuel connections should use two wrenches. They are all designed for that. You should have a 19mm, two 17mm, and a 14mm wrench for the work. Use flare nut wrenches whenever possible and open-end wrenches only when necessary.

Pressurize the system and check for leaks before you put the protective cover back on.

__________________
Mike Heath
1988 560SL Black/Palomino
1988 300SEL Black Pearl/Burgandy
1984 500SEC Anthracite Grey/Palomino