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Originally Posted by cth350
I wrote a longer reply before and just lost it. It started with "lovely car!" and bravo to the wife for sharing the adventure in maintenance and upkeep. The car, when sorted out will be a dream to drive.
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I hate it when i write a post and then...zap....I lose it. Most often by hitting backspace and instead of deleting a letter, the webpage cycles back the prior page....most irritating.
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Originally Posted by cth350
To your specific question, M116/M117 timing marks do that. To get the timing spot on, there are "offset woodruff keys" that can shift where the cam lobs sit relative to the gears. What matters is when the valves open & close. There's a spec for that, not everybody works that hard to set it precisely.
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Ok, well that's good to know. The car does run better now, but I suspect the new plugs have only bought me a temporary reprieve until they foul out again.
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Originally Posted by cth350
Regarding running rich, of larger concern is the way the djet (d-jetronic) system reacts to vacuum leaks; which is to say "very poorly". Find and fix as many as you can. The big sucks, pardon the pun will be the hose leading to the manifold pressure sensor on the firewall, the line that leads to a check-valve or two for the body's various vacuum devices, the two pieces of rubber on each injector and the 8 little rings that connect the two halves of the manifold together. That last one requires actual work to cure, so it tends to be ignored. You could retorque the bolts that hold the two halves together as a start for that. The hoses in the idle circuit can also contribute to a vacuum leak.
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Great - thanks. I'll check all those out.
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Originally Posted by cth350
Regarding individual injectors, there's a direct relationship from the trigger points closing to the injector firing, plus variability provided by the brain box regarding how long the injector stays open. You can use a stethoscope to listen for each injector firing. To improve the quality of the circuit, you can clean the trigger points in the lower half of the distributor. Frank Mallory said just use a dollar bill rather than sanding the points. Also, under the battery tray is where all the ground lines from the EFI wiring harness end up, loose and retighten them to improve the ground quality.
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I've also found a way to measure and adjust the trigger points, so I have the distributor in my hand here, and will see where the trigger points are as well - they look "ok", but I'll try get exact degrees and see if they are in spec or not.