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Originally Posted by Mighty190
Thanks for letting me know I should buy a tool that costs half of what I have in the entire project.
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You can't afford to get snarky with the only knowledgeable person helping you.
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Originally Posted by Mighty190
If it's really this simple I shouldn't need a tool to know how to reset the alarm and trace issues with the immobilizer.
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A good scan tool will show if the ECU is released by the DAS box to run the car. The DAS or alarm system don't need reset, it is plug and play if the key matches the DAS and DAS matches the ECU. I've shuffled these 3 parts between cars and never had a problem. I've even gone so far as to put a 97 C280 and 97 C36 AMG ECU in my 97 SL320 and had zero starting issues. The fuel maps were all wrong but the car ran and drove.
Also, if the key / DAS / ECU are miss matched the engine will run for 3 seconds then shut down, you car isn't doing that.
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Originally Posted by Mighty190
I'd love a wiring diagram if I could find one. Unfortunately I can't.
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There are usually CD manuals on E bay.
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Originally Posted by Mighty190
Why was I working in the column with power on the car? I wasn't. I josseled all kinds of crusty home made starter wiring, from the PO, while removing it then powered it up. I don't even know if that 50A fuse on the K40 relay blew then but the lead to the starter was definitely not in good condition and may have shorted.
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On my 97 C280 / SL320, the 50A ( is 40 A on my cars ) fuse on the K40 is for the electric air pump relay / motor on my cars and won't affect starting of the engine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mighty190
If it has 6v when it's powered on I agree that is odd. It maintained 6v while cranking. So yes that could be a short if it does in fact need 12v rather than 6.
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If there was a " short " you would have melted wires / fuses that have cleared. Calling this issue a short shows a fundamental lack of understanding of electrical systems. Couple this with the lack of a wiring diagram and this project is doomed to fail.