Quote:
Originally Posted by prazepam
Well, I'm doing the best I can to be an effective detective on my end. The ideas and perspective y'all offer do indeed help.
I'm quite sure it's not gummed rings. I have done a cylinder soak over the course of a week and it did not alter the compression numbers. That said, I believe the engine should fire with the compression it does have.
Water injection is not helpful because I can't get the engine to fire up. i am intrigued with the idea, but at the moment it is irrelevant.
As suggested, I flushed the IP by dropping a line from the lift pump into an acetone bottle. I removed the return line from the injection pump to the diesel filter and replaced the check valve with no hose attached. This video I shot today after having cranked a little every day for a week to flush the acetone through little by little. Some gunk did come out, perhaps I just need to run more through? Anything better than acetone? I also cleaned the delivery valves and fitted new copper washers because a few were leaking a little. Now the pump is only firing from line #5. I'm not sure what to make of it.
Here is the video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VTXZXNZG_5f96WM6sfLzFpr07mv5rRu3/view?usp=sharing |
Well the crank in the injection pump is intact. As number five is the last element it services. There have been instances of front bearing failure but usually you still get some action from several elements near the back of the pump. When you cleaned the delivery valves did you disturb the elements cylinders? If you think you may have it might be advisable to remove the side plate to make sure they are all stlll hooked up properly.
First do some form of fuel availability testing at pressure though before moving on.
Just a note on chemicals in general as well. The activity level of them is temperature dependent. Always far better to be at least 70F degrees or more. Chemical activity rapidly declines below that temperature.
I try not to learn too many things the hard way. For example a cylinder or injection pump soak at say 50F degrees might be almost non productive unless done for months at that temperature.
Still I manage this to from time to time. Painting my old ford half ton many years ago at 60 degrees ambient temperature. Then watching the cured paint falling off as the binders did not function at all at that temperature. Before the paint hardened.
No the paint was not defective. The user being myself was. I knew that before I painted the truck but thought I could get away with it. What I did not comprehend is how the curve of chemical activity versus temperature rolled off so fast.
.Some chemical component in the paint was pretty much inactivated. I would suspect almost totally by the 10F degree temperature reduction.