Thanks all for the info. Oddly enough, about halfway through my commute this morning I decided to try the window again. The first time I got the relay clicking noise, and then all of a sudden it worked. Auto down, up, repeated several times, worked every time.
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Originally Posted by jay_bob
It's about the same process as described above (that was for a 123), on a 124 the switches are clipped into the plastic frame, and release from below in a similar manner. There are release tabs that need to be pushed in and then the switch pops out of the frame.
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So the release tabs are on the tops side, and then push up from the bottom? Or vice versa?
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Originally Posted by jay_bob
Your 1992 W124 has the convenience control system with the express down feature. Unlike all prior models, where the switches in the console directly switch the motor current, the switches in the console just send low current voltage signals to the convenience control module located under the left rear passenger seat. This module actually does all the switching of the four window motors.
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That explains why I heard the relay clicking back there. Sounded like it was coming from the same place as the heated seat relay, which was clicking until I had everything hooked up and fused properly.
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Originally Posted by Diseasel300
Did you have the switches out to swap driver/passenger in your test above? Can you elaborate on what you did and what the results were?
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Yes, I switched switches L to R, and the R side continued to be inop. Bothe switches worked on the L side.
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Originally Posted by Alec300SD
As to why the the PS window function failed...possibly frayed wiring near flexure point in PS door, bent regulator, siezed window motor, loose/corroded pin receptacle (female side) of console PS window switch connector.
I'm leaning toward the last option, as you had intermittent operation of the PS window when you pressed harder on the PS switch.
You should be able to open the plastic body of the plug-in connector and remove the wires (take a photo of wire locations beforehand to aid in reassembly).
Lightly, gently crimp each female connector so it will have better contact with the male pin when the connection is renewed.
Hope this solves your loss of PS window function.
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Thanks! If I can free the switches from the plastic frame I'll definitely have a look at the pins...at least clean them up. I've already taken apart several of this style of pin connector on various places throughout the car.