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Old 05-27-2014, 05:19 PM
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Stretch Stretch is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musikpal View Post
... Yes the axles n differential were removed long time ago. I was changing my axles from one piece type to two pieces type(anular??) so it took me awhile to figure out what would fit.

...
That explains why the back end fell out - I guess you left it hanging there for quite a while!

Quote:
Originally Posted by musikpal View Post
...
Anyway, looking at the last 2 pics from whunter's post, I can see that the female part on the end of the front shaft has 3 cuts and the big nut is used to close these 3 gaps. When the gaps are not closed that's when we get vibration. And that's why we mark the location of the turning of the nut. Is that wrong??? Other than that I can't see the reason since everything is symeyrical.
No it isn't like that at all.

Firstly if you look on the propshaft halves you will see that little weights have been tack welded onto the shafts at different positions - if you do not align the shafts correctly they will be out of balance.

This is why later propshafts were marked at the factory.


^^^^ That's the first point I'll make.



Vibration can be a result of many things but one thing that can happen is as follows...


(Get ready for a long explanation! I'm tired and probably won't get to the point that quickly...)

The engine is mounted on two rubber mounts.

The gearbox / transmission is mounted on rubber mounts.

The subframe and the back of the differential are also on rubber mounts.

The propshaft is of a fixed length once the big nut is tight (or it should be) but it is also in the middle on a rubber mount in front of the SINGLE universal joint.

If by bad luck / bad positioning the propshaft is fitted between the differential and transmission + engine and it is tightened in a position that is too long or too short the propshaft is not in a straight line.

With a SINGLE universal joint (UJ) this might mean that vibrations are induced by spinning - a double phased UJ set up counteracts UJ vibrations - a single does not.

(see Universal joint - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)

So the trick to make sure that everything has settled in the best place is to put the car on its wheels and then roll it backwards and forwards before tightening the big nut. In this way the parts are in a preferential position that will hopefully not cause any UJ induced vibrations. It also means that the propshaft is not being pulled or pushed by the flex discs at either end.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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