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Just a bit of a follow up:
3 topics covered here:
(1) Solution to plugging the FD outlet ports
(2) Observations on cleaner interaction
(3) Next steps & general comments
1. Plugging the FD ports was accomplished by utilizing the hardware on the backup M117 intake manifold and the BMW motorcycle calipers and hoses. The MB intake contributed one of the thermo-vacuum switches, which happened to have an identical thread as on the FD injector line ports.
The BMW calipers (good to have spares) each supplied a brake line and a brake hose. Both ends of the brake line and one end of the hose had the required thread size/pitch for my FD plugging needs. Each brake line was cut in two and then folded shut in a vice; the brake hose was cut and plugged with a nail, secured with piano wire. I am pretty sure the nail plugs will withstand 80PSI.
What can I say? This is improvising with what’s on hand, but for me it beats an uncertain drive to hardware stores. Also, this sort of exercise becomes a fine validation to why certain amount of junk is good to have in your basement.
2. After soaking for several days (while previously filled to tops of FD ports with cleaner & stored outdoors in 20-40F temperature), without any plunger movement, I observed the level of cleaner move down in all ports. I interpret this as evidence of the cleaner insinuating itself deeper into the FD, from the upper chamber to the lower, probably by slowly displacing air, while also dissolving varnish.
This required a refill, which immediately revealed that two chambers had more empty space (see the photo). I interpret this as evidence to support that at the initial fill up, each port drew up as much cleaner as it was capable of, in its contaminated state, and that some ports had less contamination in them than others (and hence filled up nearly completely right away). Once the cleaning and settling continued over a few days, the ports which originally had greater contamination and blocked passageways to the lower chamber now allowed the first dose of cleaner to flow down leaving more room at the second fill up.
This is theory and I welcome other interpretations, if anyone detects faulty reasoning in my summary.
3. What’s next? Now that the backup FD is completely full of very potent cleaner AND I have figured out how to plug the ports, it will be transferred to the 450SLC. The existing FD – suspected of being significantly contaminated – will be removed. The replacement will be installed on the AFM. Its Cold Start Valve line will be connected to a spare CSV and the WUR control and return lines connected to a spare WUR, (with both left loose). 7 of the injector line ports will remain plugged (see photo), with the remaining one connected to a fuel line w/o an injector on the end. The line will go into a clear container to catch fuel.
Ignition”ON” then the FP safety switch on the AFM comes off to energize the FP. At this point, assuming no leaks appear, I will depress the AFM plate and generate a stream out of FD into the container. The active line will then be moved to the next port on the FD, with the former plugged until all are flushed. I can’t wait to see what comes out of the FD !
If all goes well, once all 8 ports are flushed, the FD micro filters will go back in, followed by the correct fuel lines. I expect the car to run, at that point, but will conduct the system and control pressure tests, since the current settings of the primary pressure regulator (in the replacement FD) is unknown. I expect to only need to adjust the PPR shims in order to reach correct settings.
As background, if you are still here, the relatively low mileage 450SLC (87K) was not run for the last 6 years. It has a new: F. Tank Strainer, FP, Filter, Acumulator & Pressure Release Valve. Its current system pressure is 76-80 PSI. The control pressure is 12PSI at 10C, rising to 55PSI when motor is fully warmed up. The Auxiliary Air Valve is operational (piston retracted when cold & comes up as the motor warms up). I am assuming the Cold Start Valve and the Thermo-Time Switch are functional, but haven’t gotten to testing them.
The car will start and attempt to go into high idle, but the motor will die after 3-4 seconds, unless the AFM plate is depressed about ¼”. As long as the manual override is applied to the AFM plate (increasing the amount of fuel) the motor will run, but will die as soon as the AFM plate is released. This condition will be constant, even after the motor is fully warmed up. I interpret this as evidence of a partially blocked FD. Yes, there is some reason to suspect that one or more injectors are at least somewhat contaminated, but the FD is my primary suspect right now.
What do you think?
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