Quote:
Originally Posted by GGR
Re the vibration: You may first check all engine, trans, diff, front and rear subframe mounts as well prop shaft flex-discs and center bearing. If all is OK, you should then make sure the trans output flange and diff input flange rotate in parrallel plans, even if not perfectly aligned. If you have a doubt, while the car is on the lift, you may take the driveshaft out, bolt two metal bars (L or square shaped) to the flanges so that they are vertical going downwards? You then measure the distance between the bars at flange level and once more one meter down. The distances should be the same. You repeat the operation with the bars as close as horizontal as thay can go, on both sides. If distances are not the same, you should adjust the position of the engine/trans or diff so that the two bars become parallel in all three positions.
|
Shop did rear seal on tranny last year, but it is leaking again. They want car overnight, so I am going to let them install new Transmission and Diff mounts. Despite the leak, they are a good shop and should know how to get things aligned. Without a hoist and having bad back, I don't want to even try!
They had the transmission out a year ago and it never vibrated after that. But I did have another shop put new engine mounts in about a month ago. Could doing that have thrown the alignment out at the rear of the transmission?
The transmission shop found a loose bolt on the transmission mount - They would fix that when they put the mount in. But it could perhaps be part of problem.
I also noticed front right engine shock seems to be more extended than it used to be. Shaft has rust on it. It may be squeaking as it vibrates. I am going to squirt some WD-40 on it and see if that helps.
Thanks for input.
__________________
Graham
85 300D

,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5