Sorry to hear about your mishap, hope all humans were unharmed. I'm at work right now so I'll have to give a quick response and try later to help.
The EDS is behind the battery (behind the plastic flap) it is a rectangular bbox approx. 1/2-1" thick X 6"x4" attached to many little wires that make up a big cable. I know it's vaugue but you see it, if not I'll snap some pics. I would go to radio shack (or any electronics store) and pick up some "Deox it"
and go through all your connections (including the EDS) I would also suggest you get some dielectric grease and apply it liberally after you Deox.
advance search under BigBen, bobodaclown, 2.5Turbo, dieselbeagle and me using terms like boost, eds, transducer.
I'll catch up around midnight
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/42751d1175279556-eds-codes-1992-300d-2-5-turbo-1992-w124-eds-components-location2.jpg
EGR -- when does it actuate? 92 300D
ELECTRONIC DIESEL SYSTEM (EDS)
Model Model Year
124.128 1990-93
126.134 126.135 1990-91
140.134 1992-93
FAULT CODE TABLE
DTC Readout Possible Cause of Failure
1 No fault found
2 Fuel rack position sensor (L7)
3 Air flow sensor signal (B2/1)
4 Electronic diesel system (EDS) control unit (N39) or atmospheric pressure sensor
5 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve vacuum transducer (Y31/1) or fault in exhaust gas recirculation
(EGR) control circuit
6 Electronic diesel system (EDS) control unit (N39), internal voltage supply
7 Starter ring gear speed sensor (L3)
8 Engine coolant temperature sensor (B11/4)
9 Intake air temperature sensor (B2/1a)
10 Voltage supply insufficient
11 Electronic idle speed control actuator (Y22) or exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve vacuum transducer
(Y31/1) or Boost pressure cut-out switchover valve
12 Not used
13 Electronic diesel system control unit (N39), faulty (internal fault memory)
14 Electronic diesel system pressure sensor (B5/1), defective
15 Boost pressure control/ pressure control flap vacuum transducer (Y31/5) , or defect in Boost pressure
control circuit.
Or
Intake manifold air pressure control valve vacuum transducer (Y31/2), wastage vacuum transducer
(Y31/3), or malfunction Intake manifold air pressure circuit
As of February 1992, a modified vacuum transducer has entered production. The new part can be identified by a black ring, however, the part number remains unchanged. In case of customer complaints of engine surging at approximately 50-60 MPH, smoking rough idle after start, or poor power output on vehicles with earlier production dates, the tests in this bulletin should be performed; see Testing.
Pressure control flap test (engine 602 only)
1. Connect vacuum tester to vacuum actuator (arrow, Figure 1).
2. Apply vacuum slowly until lever (a) contacts stop (b).
3. Vacuum reading should be 385 +/- 5 mbar. If necessary, adjust by loosing screws (c) and sliding vacuum actuator (100) in the slots. Release vacuum and repeat test if needed.
Vacuum pump test
1. Connect vacuum tester (019) to accessory connector on vacuum pump (arrow, Figure 2).
2. Disconnect main vacuum hose (B) from brake booster (A) and plug.
3. With engine idling, reading should be 700 mbar after 30 seconds. See barometric (altitude) correction table in this bulletin.
Barometric (altitude) correction (see chart)
Readings must be adjusted according to the prevailing barometric pressure to compensate for differences in altitude (deviation from sea level). When performing the vacuum pump test, reduce the reading obtained according to the altitude dependent value in the chart.
Vacuum system and consumer test
1. Using a Y-connector, connect vacuum tester into consumer connector on vacuum pump.
2. With engine idling, check that reading is at least 600 +/- 30 mbar.
3. If vacuum is below 570 mbar, check the following for leakage: line to vacuum control valve (65) (transparent), line to consumers (grey), vacuum transducers (Y31/1 and Y31/5), as well as the black/white vacuum supply line. To check, disconnect and plug lines at T-connector or double T-connector (arrow, Figures 7, 8, 9, and 10) one by one.
4. If vacuum is greater than 650 mbar, check for possible leakage in the vacuum line system.
Vacuum transducer test (Y31/1, Y31/2, Y31/3, Y31/4, and Y31/5)
1. Using a Y-connector, connect vacuum tester to consumer connector on vacuum pump.
2. With engine idling, disconnect connector VAC from transducer Y31/1 and plug line. If vacuum reading is below 650 mbar, replace vacuum transducer Y31/1. Repeat procedure for vacuum transducer Y31/3 (124.128 model year 1990-91) and Y31/4 (140.134)
3. On engine 602 only, with engine idling, disconnect connecting line VAC from transducer Y31/2 (model year 1990/91) or Y31/5 (starting model year 1992) at the Y-connector black/white line and plug. If vacuum reading is below 650 mbar, replace vacuum transducer Y31/2 or Y31/5.
Model years 1990/91
Engine 602.96 Model 124
Y31/1 EGR valve vacuum transducer
Y31/2 Pressure control flap vacuum transducer
Y31/3 Wastegate vacuum transducer
Model years 1990/91
Engine 603.970 Model 126
Y31/1 EGR valve vacuum transducer
Starting model year 1992
Engine 602.96 Model 124
Y27 EGR switchover valve
Y27/4 Boost pressure control switchover valve
Y27/5 Pressure control flap switchover valve
Y31/1 EGR valve vacuum transducer
Y31/5 Boost pressure control/pressure control flap vacuum
transducer (not visible, located under air cleaner housing.
Quick trouble shoot....
From DanG ChicagoArea
====================
I've decided to go into great detail of what I did to the 2.5. The white
2.5 had a blown head gasket when I got the car. It contaminated a number of
vacuum items, which is why I started bypassing stuff.
1) Overboost protection canister. Small one on the driver's side firewall.
Had soot in it, and prevented the ALDA from sensing pressure. Bypassed. I
don't think that I've had ONE of these work correctly on any turbo. They
all get sooted up eventually.
2) EGR. Also full of soot. I have a good replacement, but haven't gotten
around to replacing it. An EGR on a diesel is a dumb idea anyways because
feeding soot back into the intake is not good for it. Bypass is easy. Keep
the electrical connections intact to the vacuum pod. The signal to open and
close will be there, and the computer will be happy. Disconnecting the
vacuum lines and bypassing is all that needs to be done.
3) Turbo wastegate vacuum pod. The wastegate has a vacuum failsafe that is
normally open with zero vacuum. Bypass is to connect the wastegate vacuum
(which is the electrical/vacuum pod closest to the passenger side headlight,
low in the inner front fender), and hook it directly to the main vacuum
system. My wastegate vacuum pod leaks, and I need to replace it. Bypassing
is only temporary, as that particular failsafe is not good to ignore for too
long. The key to preserving the computer happiness is not disconnecting the
electrical harness to the vacuum pod.
4) Secondary turbo fault sensor. If something is very flaked up with the
computer or sensors, the secondary sensor which is mounted by the battery,
opens to kill boost pressure to the ALDA. Bypass is easy for troubleshootin
g. The only reason why you would want to bypass this for any reason is to
find other faults.
My point is that the highly sophisticated computer controlled turbo system
can be made very simple. Call it emergency road repair 101. If you have a
full time vacuum direct connect to the turbo wastegate, you'll have turbo.
If you have a single pressure line from the intake manifold to the ALDA,
you'll have appropriate fuel enrichment. Leaving electrical items attached
to the vacuum pods keeps the computer happy and compliant.