Warren, that brings back some fond memories, I did the head on my '91 SE a few years back. A few of my memories:

I was always told to never put an aluminum head back on a cast iron block without checking/planing it, and to always do a valve job and guides if it had more than 100k miles. I had it done, and it's used zero oil for the last 80k miles. So Doc has excellent advice on that. Plane that head, get it really smooth so it won't chew up the gasket as it slides over it every time the engine heats/cools. That's the main cause of the leaking gaskets, uneven expansion between aluminum and iron, which grinds up the gasket.

Yeah, I think I remember 2 braces under the intake (and the book does show one, but probably just for illustration. Feel free to remove/replace both, HaHa).

No need to turn the cam as the rockers are loosened, as Doc said. Just kinda alternate the bolts as you take them loose.

Might check the motor mounts while they are easily accessible, pretty cheap to replace.

Yeah, ditch that green stuff; the Daimler/Chrysler stuff is readily available at Autozone now, so why not use it. Drain and flush a bit to get all the green out though.

Check the water pipe that goes from the head to the water pump - if it's corroded, you might want to replace it while it's easy to do.

You do know how to reset the chain tensioner I'm sure?

Oil the washers under the head bolts. Otherwise they will gall and not torque down properly. Clean and oil the threads also. That last 90-degree turn on the head bolts was the scariest thing I have ever done on a car engine. I don't know what the torque is, but I was cranking for all I was worth, expecting to snap a bolt at any second.
But, it worked out fine.

You know the three little screws that hold the cam oiler "pipe" on top of the rocker arms? Clean and locktite them (they can & will come loose).

That's all I can remember; but she still uses zero oil and doesn't ooze anything after 6 years, so mission accomplished.

Have fun,
DG