Some comments about the other threads concerning the rear subframe/crossmember/trailing-arms.

While the manual, and some other posts talk about removing the entire rear crossmember/axle assembly, in my case it wasn't neccessary, and leaving the driveshaft and other end of the crossmember attached made the job much easier than trying to wrestle the entire crossmember/axle assembly back into place.

My '82 240D has no antilock sensors & wiring to worry about when lowering the differential and removing the trailing-arm.

I expect W123 rear springs to be a bit lighter than those in a W116/W126, and I'm sure the ones in my '82 240D have sagged a bit compared with when they were new. I can't say if installing NEW W123 springs would require a spring-compressor, but there was plenty of slack in my rear spring once the differential/subframe was lowered enough to get the trailing arm out.

None of the bolts I had to remove during my left-side trailing-arm replacement were seized or rusted.

None of my rear subframe or trailing-arm bushings appeared to be damaged, or loose enough to require new ones. The bushings may be hard, but it's a $225 car and, except for a worn steering box, it rides/handles well enough for me.

Happy Motoring, Mark

__________________
DrDKW